By Charlie Lewis - October 2024
For those who currently present as masculine, or are curious about exploring masculine presentation, hairstyle can be a significant way of achieving this presentation. This guide aims to give an overview of the history of masculine hairstyles, advice based on current masculine styles, and tips to help you achieve a masculine hairstyle that works best for you. While by no means exhaustive, this guide should serve as a jumping-off point for those engaging in masculine expression. For a more general guide on masculine presentation, check out this article.
What is a masculine haircut or style?
Masculinity is a descriptor of gender experience, style, and expression that people of any gender can access and engage in. Masculine expression can be achieved through external means such as clothing, body shape, makeup, and hairstyle. Since hair and its relationship to gender presentation is often culturally relevant/specific, in the past traditionally in many cultures, a masculine haircut was synonymous with short hair. Luckily, today, the categories of masculine hair are expanding beyond short and clean-cut styles and towards more inclusive definitions. But at the end of the day, as with clothing and makeup, there is no one way to define a masculine haircut. If you identify with masculinity, your hairstyle is masculine.
History of masculine hair
Throughout much of human history and the world, the fashions of masculine hairstyles have shifted radically. What is considered appropriately “masculine” hairstyles and appropriately “feminine” hairstyles have gone back and forth throughout the eras of recorded history.
Early history
In ancient Egypt, the style was to shave one's head and wear wigs, as a way to avoid lice and deal with the desert heat. In many periods, cultures, and legends, long masculine hair is seen as a source of power, which is interrupted or destroyed by cutting the hair.
During the Middle Ages, long hair for men was popular, due to its association with nobility. High-ranking lords, as well as knights, sported long flowing hair, which was often styled with hats or clips. Long hair was considered a sign of living a long and healthy life, as well as a sign of privilege for those who could afford to upkeep longer hair and keep it clean and free of lice.
During the Renaissance in Europe, shorter hair on men became fashionable again, with many wearing their hair under fashionable wigs made from horsehair or in braids with accessories woven in.
By the 18th century, men often wore large, powdered wigs or wore their own hair in a powdered and coiffed style. During this time fashion for men was very similar to that of women, with people of all genders wearing tall, powdered hair along with makeup and gaudy clothing/jewelry.
In the 19th century, regency era hairstyles became fashionable for men, these were often short but voluminous natural hairstyles with no parts, curls at the ends. Men’s fashion included playing around with beards and mustaches. During this era, the pompadour style was also created and gained rapid popularity.
Modern era
At the beginning of the 20th century, hair for men was kept short and slicked back with oils, abandoning the previous centuries’ voluminous hairstyles, while men’s faces were clean shaven to denote youthfulness and vigor. In the 1920s, the invention of pomade made it possible to keep hair in place and form it into many kinds of shapes. Moving into the 1930’s, men’s hair was kept short or shaven on the sides, while the pompadour made a bit of a comeback, this time with sharp parts and volume strictly placed on the top of the head.
By the 1950’s it was considered unprofessional to have hair longer than one's collar for masculine folks, and beards were no longer in fashion. However, the voluminous shapes of pompadours, and new shapes such as flat-top, crew, and duck-tail cuts were gaining rapid popularity. In the late 60’s and into the 70’s, the Civil Rights movement led Black men and masculine presenting folks to embrace natural hairstyles and reject social norms that criminalized or otherwise sought to control Black self-expression. At the same time, the hippy movement saw masculine folks growing their hair out long, and wearing thick beards, sideburns, and mustaches again.
By the 1980s, those longer and natural hairstyles of the 70s led way to masculine hairstyles such as the mullet and the jheri curl. Counter cultural movements like punk popularized spiky mo-hawks and genres of music like hair metal were focused on messy long rocker styles. Through the 1990s, the pretty boy of romantic comedies and boy bands was the ideal for masculine expression. This led to the birth of the curtained hair with a middle part, highlights, frosted tips, and swoopy romantic side bangs for men.
In the early 2000s, spiky hair was all the rage, and a great way to show off frosted tips. Cornrows and braids became more popular during this time as well. As the aughts raged on and into the 2010s, messy shags and side bangs became a dominant masculine hairstyle, with countercultural looks such as scene and emo creating varied length textured, straightened, and dyed hair styles that crossed over gender lines.
From the 2010s into now, hairstyles from the past have become popular again for masculine folks, with the mullet of the 70s-90s gaining popularity in the 2020s, and a return to longer masculine hairstyles from the 60s-80s. In the present day, definitions of masculinity have expanded, allowing for more playfulness in regard to hairstyle and gender expression.
On queer hairstyles
Hairstyles are part of a greater expression of gender identity and have long played a role in queer self-expression. The reclamation of masculinity by both queer men and women has played a big part in the queer community’s approach to masculine hairstyles.
While hair in the queer community tends to generally follow similar trends as the rest of the world, what is considered a “queer” hairstyle or “masculine” hairstyle tends to have differentiated from the cis-gender heterosexual paradigm of the time. Many people within queer community also used hair as means to signify themselves to other members of the LGBTQIA+ community.
Queering hairstyles often involves subverting expectations based upon gender and popular styles, playing with length, shape, and often adopting a DIY style. Facial hair such as beards and mustaches have played a large role in the development of a queer men’s style. In the lesbian/queer community, short hair has been a symbol of belonging for many and an expression of masculinity for the wearer. Today, queer men play around with different facial styles, and many butch and masc women, and non-binary people rock long hair.
Popular Hairstyles That Are Read As Or Considered Masculine
Short
The fade
There are many kinds of fades when it comes to hairstyles. However, the basics of a fade include longer hair on the top of the scalp, with increasingly buzzed hair tapering down the back, sides, and nape of the neck. Fades can also include squared-off edges, and lines/designs that are shaved directly into the hair. This is a very popular masculine hairstyle at the moment, but it requires regular upkeep. The shaved hair can grow quickly and affect the appearance of the fade. People with all hair textures can wear a fade. The upkeep varies depending on your hair type.
Mini twists
A popular masculine hairstyle for those with kinky hair/in the Black community. If you don’t have longer hair for locks or longer braids, mini twists can be a great option for natural hair. Mini twists can also be styled into a short pony or bob. This low-maintenance style is protective and will retain moisture and texture for kinky hair types. Make sure to keep your hair and scalp moisturized while wearing mini-twists.
Spiky
Spiky cuts for masculine folks peaked in the ‘90s and ‘00s but are making a comeback. Often associated with the punk scene, a spiky short look gives volume without the heavy lifting of longer more complex styles. A good gel will be your best friend with spiky hair, keeping everything in place throughout your day.
Pompadour
The pompadour was wildly popular for men in the 1950s, and it’s seen a comeback recently. Combing the hair up and then back to create a large and tall “pomp” on the top of one's head. With the pomp, you can shave or fade the sides, or just keep it short and even length. Allowing you to add volume and eye-catching style to your short haircut.
Crop
Classic, the crop is simply that: hair cropped close to your scalp. It is different from buzzed and faded hair, in that it’s usually more even length. This is a good bet if you want your hair to be read as masculine, and often involves less upkeep than more complex hairstyles.
Afro
Another great option for natural/kinky hair. A classic natural style popularized in the US during the 1960s when the civil rights movement pushed for accepting natural Black hairstyles. Keep your afro properly moisturized and protect it during sleep using a silk scarf or bonnet.
Curtained middle part
The middle part with curtained hair of the early aughts is back and very popular with Gen Z and those into Y2K fashion. The curtained look has longer hair on top, swooping down over the ears. The back and sides are usually shaved or buzzed. A good option if you want some volume and length but still want to keep your hair short.
Medium
Medium mullet
A mainstay of hair fashion for all genders in the ‘80s and ‘90s, the mullet made its way back from dorky and passe and rose in popularity in recent years. Often referred to as “business in the front, party in the back” it keeps hair near your face short, with the back extending in length to just below the ears. Versatile and looks great with all hair textures. It requires less upkeep than a haircut with shaved or buzzed elements but requires regular shapings/trims.
The bob
What began as a fashionable trend for women in the 1920’s when feminism popularized cutting hair short, wearing shorter skirts, and generally shedding restrictive rules around women’s fashion. In the 1960s, the bob returned, a result of Beatle mania, with pop stars wearing short bobs with bangs, affectionately referred to as a “bowl cut.” This masculine bob has gone in and out of style but is a great option for those looking for a mid-length haircut.
Medium locs
Locs are a natural hairstyle for Black hair that can come in all lengths. A medium head of locs can be incredibly versatile, as they can be put up in a ponytail or top knot, or worn down. You can also combine medium locks with a fade or undercut to add dimension to your hairstyle.
Mop
The mop is often a curly/wavy-haired style which is somewhere between a bob and a mullet. This involves cutting your hair to frame your face but keeping length in other areas. This is a fairly low-upkeep cut, but it’s important to continue to care for your curls with regular moisturizing.
Medium braids
Braiding is a longstanding tradition in Black and African culture, and there are so many beautiful ways to express yourself with braid designs both intricate and simple. Braids are also a protective style for kinkier hair, and you and your braider can get very artistic with braid designs.
Long
Long mullet
Like the medium-length mullet, the long mullet is also in fashion these days. A long mullet can be done in several styles. A “shag” style mullet cut for example plays on the 70’s Farah Fawcett style cut of having several different lengths of hair in the front and back while keeping the look messy but purposeful. This is also a look you can let grow out a bit between cuts.
Beachy waves and curls
Another 70’s look that’s made a big comeback lately is large curls and beachy waves in a long cut for masculine folks.This allows you to have luscious voluminous hair, with the texture on full display while also being read as masculine.
Long locs
As mentioned above, locs are a versatile natural hairstyle for Black masculine folks, and longer locs are especially so. Locs can also be combined with braided styles like cornrows and other types of braids or twists.
The bun
Though terms like “man bun” are reductive, there’s no denying that wearing a bun or top knot with long hair has become a bit of a staple of masculine fashion recently. It’s a great option for both casual and formal looks, and can either be kept messy or done neatly. If you don’t have as much hair/volume as you’d like to get that nice round bun shape, try using a hair donut to shape your bun.
Long corn-rows
Cornrows are a style of braid for Black/kinky hair that is low-maintenance and can be styled in many different ways. Cornrows can take a lot less time in the chair than other kinds of braids for natural hair and are a protective style. Cornrows can not only be styled in different kinds of up-dos, but you can incorporate accessories such as beads and clips or play with different styles of baby hairs for a sleek look.
How to Make Long Hair Look Masculine
While long hair can be read as feminine, it is not inherently femme-presenting, and many masculine folks of all genders rock long hair. That being said, there are some things you can do to enhance the masculine quality of your long hair. For instance, getting a long haircut that ties into long masculine styles from the past can be a way to be read as masculine, such as looks from the 70s/80s when long hair for masculine folks was popular. Start by looking at photos of men and masc presenting folks from this time to find a style you like. Another tip is to pair long hair with some kind of shaved look, such as an undercut or fade on the sides. This allows you to still have versatile long hair, but imbue it with a style that’s often read as more masculine.
Masculine haircut/style tips
Go with hairstyles that work for your texture
Hairstyle is greatly affected by one’s natural hair texture, and there is a wide range of textures one can have, with some folks having a combination. Our natural hair texture is written in our DNA, passed down from our genetic ancestors. You likely fall somewhere on a spectrum of possible textures, from straight to kinky.
You can change your hair texture with curlers, straighteners, or a perm to make it curlier or straighter, or through care methods like “The Curly Girl” method over time. You do need to consider both your natural texture and the upkeep of different hair textures. Certain hairstyles might look great on the person in the photo, but if their hair is a radically different texture or thickness than yours, it just won’t look the same.
Consider the long-term effects of dying your hair
No matter what hair texture you start with, dying and/or bleaching your hair will cause damage to the follicles. Continued dying/bleaching over time will create ongoing damage that will make it impossible to “return” to your hair’s natural state without cutting it off or growing it out. In extreme cases, this can even lead to hair loss. In addition to damages created by the chemicals in the dying process, colored hair will grow out at the roots/fade and need regular touch-ups at home or in the salon.
Consider the up-keep
Like the example of colored hair needing touch-ups, certain hairstyles need to be kept moisturized/protected by a bonnet while sleeping, and others need to be regularly shaved or trimmed, most masculine hairstyles will require some upkeep. You may fall in love with a fade design, but not have the money or time to keep up with re-shaving it every few weeks. Always consider your capacity to commit to a hairstyle before taking the leap.
Use styling products
Most hair can benefit from at least regular conditioning and in some cases shampooing. Finding hair care products tailored to your hair type is an essential part of upkeep. In addition, some masculine hairstyles benefit from the use of gel, wax, mousse, or pomade to keep the proper texture, shape, or volume.
Find a gender-affirming stylist to work with
While you will of course have to find someone who can cut, color, style, or braid your hair in your area who you can afford to go to, if possible look for someone who has some experience with masculine hairstyles. If you’re gender-nonconforming or transgender, it can be even more important to find someone who is accepting and affirming of your identity. You may go in asking for a short masculine cut, and a non-affirming stylist might misinterpret your request and give you a short middle-aged mom cut, for example.
Consider facial hair
If you are interested in wearing facial hair as part of your masculine presentation, whether you can grow it yourself or use makeup/fake hair to achieve it, your facial hair can be styled to match or work with the hairstyle on your head, and can even be colored or cut in a complimentary way.
Conclusion
If you are masculine-presenting or curious about presenting in a way that reads as masculine, there is a large world of hairstyles to choose from and experiment with. Finding your hair type/texture and considering your cultural roots can be a big part of starting your masculine hair journey. Following up by finding an affirming hair stylist and researching upkeep will allow you to fully rock the masculine hair of your dreams and be your most confident self.
Charlie Lewis (he/him/his) is a queer non-binary writer and filmmaker based out of Portland, OR.