by Triston Brewer - June 2023
Gender neutral/fluid fashion, previously embraced only by a handful of designers, is slowly but surely becoming part of the larger fashion landscape. Both new and established brands are starting to adapt a more non binary approach to fashion design and marketing, and take concrete steps like gender-free labeling, communication, and sizing. In this article, we first define what non binary clothing is and then present you eight clothing brands that embrace non binary fashion.
What is Non Binary Clothing?
While there is no universally accepted definition within the fashion industry, non binary clothing is essentially apparel designed, produced, labeled and marketed without associating any item with a specific gender binary. Non binary clothing, which is also often labeled as gender neutral or gender fluid clothing, transcends traditional ‘menswear’ and womenswear’ categorizations and disregards the notion that clothing should be gendered. While some pieces may still be perceived as feminine or masculine by the society depending on (ever-changing) norms, they are not associated with a specific gender identity and/or sex assigned at birth.
Non Binary Clothing Brands
Rich Mnisi
Since launching his eponymous brand in 2015, Rich Mnisi has been one of the pioneering designers at the forefront of Africa’s gender-neutral fashion movement. The mission from day one was to express his queer sexuality through clothing, effectively using his platform to advocate for LGTBQ+ visibility in South Africa and beyond. Mnisi’s commitment to reflecting the beauty and culture found within his homeland and exposing the hidden treasures of the continent to a mainstream audience has exposed the brand worldwide. Winning the AFI Young Designer Award further cemented the brand’s dedication to inclusivity as well as diversity.
The Mnisi brand is one that has set itself apart from the field by intricately weaving together aspects of music, art, and nature to create a contemporary, genderless aesthetic. Each piece from the Mnisi collection possesses elevated style which makes a notable statement on any street, making it a valuable addition to anyone's wardrobe. The brand showcases its unique perspective on fashion design through corset-style tops, 1970s-inspired flares, and one-piece tube jumpsuits. These examples exemplify Rich Mnisi’s belief that individuals cannot be confined to predefined categories, and it delivers on this edict by embracing individuality and breaking free from conventional molds.
Rad Hourani
Incorporating all of his talents as a photographer, filmmaker, and multimedia artist, Rad Hourani made history in 2007 when he delved into the realm of genderless design with the first ever then called "unisex" collection in fashion history. The Jordanian-Canadian’s brand, RAD by Rad Hourani, has been influential in challenging the deeply rooted gender binary in the fashion business. His shadowy and geometric creations even earned him a coveted spot at Paris Couture Fashion Week.
As a vocal advocate for neutrality in non binary fashion, RAD is one brand that refuses to serve up the traditional, with each collection including undeniably eclectic pieces that employ precision draping, architectural structures, and art prints alongside monochrome shirts and jersey turtlenecks. Hourani's androgynous silhouettes, predominantly using a black palette, exude power and a futuristic aesthetic, accentuated by refined details and luxurious fabrics. Customers can choose from three sizes—one, two, or three—depending on their personal style and body shape. Tailoring serves as the foundation of his work, with a focus on fitted jackets and coats. Hourani's avant-garde and asexual collections always dare to be the exception to the rules, offering designs that are fresh, dynamic, and avant-garde.
Kirrin Finch
Frustrated with the limited options available which suited their tomboy aesthetic, lesbian couple Laura Moffatt and Kelly Sanders launched Kirrin Finch in 2015 with the mission to create clothing that suited their figures and catered from a diverse range of body types. With no formal training in fashion, the two co-founders went on a quest together that has resulted in a line of apparel that disregarded the concept of menswear and womenswear and instead moved the focus into solely creating great clothes with a tailored fit. The New York-based clothing brand, named after two iconic tomboy character from American literature – Scout Finch and George Kirrin - specializes in sustainable garments designed for both casual or formal wear. The brand has experienced considerable success very quickly, welcoming individuals that live outside of the traditional to experience expertly tailored apparel.
Kirrin Finch’s dapper designs have broadened the spectrum of sartorial opportunities available to the androgynous, providing an expansive range of professional clothing that includes blazers, dress suits, pants, shirts, oxfords, and shorts. The label prioritizes the use of natural materials and incorporates organic options whenever possible. They utilize low-impact dyes, offer a wide range of sizes from 0 up to 24, and promote gender-neutral apparel that is consciously designed. As a testament to their principles, Kirrin Finch also donates a percentage of their annual sales to LGTBTQ+ community organizations.
Loverboy by Charles Jeffrey
After completing his studies at the prestigious London's Central St. Martins, Charles Jeffrey established Loverboy in 2015 and swiftly became a leading designer of runway fashion that challenges traditional gender norms. Adored by both the queer and mainstream community as well as celebrities like Harry Styles, Tilda Swinton, and BTS, his garments are elaborate and inclusive, showcasing their widespread appeal. As a trendsetter specializing in non binary fashion, the brand has risen to the top of the industry by opening the discourse surrounding sexuality and gender identity.
Fans of Loverboy creations have wholeheartedly accepted bold and lively designs that delve far from the subtle, drawing inspiration from the daring punk and glam rock movements of the 70s and 80s. The end result is a distinct style radiating a sense of joy and pop of color that makes the brand impossible to ignore. Charles Jeffrey’s approach gleefully diverges from the traditional, choosing to shatter gender constructs in fashion and celebrating expression without limitations. As the label radically transforms conventional suits and dresses towards a more playful aesthetic, Loverboy is forging ahead with a sartorial revolution adamantly rejecting the notion of defining themselves in binary terms.
Eckhaus Latta
Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta joined forces in 2011 to establish Eckhaus Latta, a brand that has taken a unique approach by combining elements of sculpture with textiles for a truly elevated sartorial experience. When the dynamic duo presented their inaugural collection in New York for the Spring/Summer 2013 season it instantly caused waves within the industry and their presence has only continued to ascend over the past decade. Their brand has quickly become synonymous with gender-fluid fashion and challenging the norms of conventional design. Eckhaus Latta, based in both New York and Los Angeles, sets itself apart by embracing gender-neutral designs and featuring models of diverse genders, ages, body shapes, and sizes in their runway shows and campaigns.
The brand has been at the forefront of featuring androgynous non-models during their runway presentations, which goes hand in hand with their collections that predominantly consist of a gender fluid approach. Eckhaus Latta is known for featuring striking prints and the unconventional use of materials such as plastics and fishing lines to produce a look that has been described as downtown chic. The label can also be counted on to incorporate deadstock materials, singular imagery, and performance art to create a unique experimental aesthetic.
One DNA
Established in 2016, One DNA is the brainchild of New York-based designers Simon Black and Travis Weaver. As the creative directors of this four-year-old genderless clothing label, the brand focuses on creating silhouettes that accommodate various body types while maintaining a stylish aesthetic. The objective is to create a product that caters to individuals stepping out of the binary regardless of gender, age, shape, or race. With sizing spanning from extra small to XXXXL, One DNA empowers people to wear all kinds of clothing from dresses to suits regardless of their gender identity or sex assigned at birth.
Providing clothing without boundaries is where One DNA thrives, and while many contemporary designers pursue an inclusive and all-encompassing ethos through different approaches, Weaver's primary focus is on the product itself. One DNA is not erasing gender but rather designing against the division typically seen between what is traditionally labelled as women's and men's fashion. For the individual seeking gender-neutral basics to build a minimalist and stylish capsule wardrobe, One DNA is the perfect choice, where one can expect to come across the full spectrum of style from puffy sleeves on a satin shirt to embellished pants with a straight silhouette.
Jacqueline Loekito
Established in 2018, the Jacqueline Loekito label is dedicated to re-examining traditional norms of styling and challenging the rules of gender binary fashion. As the creative force behind her eponymous brand, Lokeito’s vision has always been centered around androgynous clothing, emphasizing the concept of similarity regardless of gender. According to the label’s predictions, in the future, there will be no segregation between what is traditionally labeled as menswear and womenswear in mainstream fashion. The brand promotes freedom of thought and expression for the wearer with pink serving as a consistent thread running through each collection. One of Lokeito’s missions is to make the color fully accessible for all gender identities.
As a brand that works light years ahead of the current trends, Jacqueline Loekito redefines traditional fashion through a combination of sharp tailoring, flattering lines, and a complementary color palette. The designer seamlessly incorporates elements of both masculinity and femininity into each design. The essence of the brand lies in individuality and works to obliterate restrictions and societal codes typically constrained in the mainstream. Under this mantra, Lokeito incorporates a brilliant and expansive range of pink into each collection to create a larger than life aesthetic which defies conventional tailoring and proportions. Standout pieces have included bright pink, handwoven jumpers, oversized sweatshirts, and bright magenta statement tees – the epitome of excess and a direct challenge to today’s fashion boundaries.
Telfar
Prior to the emergence of non binary clothing as an established concept, and even before the now dated term “unisex clothing” started making waves, Telfar Clemens was already at the forefront. Since 2005, his brand Telfar has been designing clothing that transcends traditional gender boundaries. Working under the banner “It’s not for you – it’s for everyone”, the label encompasses an inclusive philosophy that especially embraces the intersections of the Black and queer communities and all those that reside along the fringes of traditional society. Based in New York City, Telfar is now regarded as one of the leading non binary clothing brands in the world, cementing its status when Clemens was awarded the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2017.
Diligently loyal through their tagline, Telfar is dedicated to a non-gendered perspective of design, defying classification as a streetwear brand to transcend traditional labels. As a label that has consistently challenged the old guard of the fashion industry, Telfar now resides at the forefront through new concepts that have not been adopted by older and more established entities. The company led the ‘see now, buy now’ model to release its innovative silhouettes and their most popular item, known within circles as the ‘Bushwick Birkin’, incorporates Telfar’s commitment to sustainable fashion that is accessible to everyone.
If you liked this article, you might also like: Designers at the Forefront of Non Binary Fashion.
Triston Brewer is an international journalist and digital bon vivant. He has been published in The Huffington Post and featured in New York Times, Vogue Italia, and The Washington Post, to name a few.
Credit for the featured image: Fabienne Bieri for Jacqueline Loekito and Slippage Magazine. Permisssion to use image granted by Jacqueline Loekito.